Its only March.. or April. The snow and ice may be gone (then again in New England they may not), but that doesn’t mean you’re ready yet. Here are 5 mistakes to avoid in the early season:
1. Hammering the big ring before you’ve ridden your base miles. Back when nearly everyone rode a standard crankset (whether 52/42 or 53/39) the dogma was ride 1000 miles in the small chainring before pushing big gears. While cranksets have since changed to compact (50/34) or mid-compact (52/36) and you may be spun out in certain situations in the small ring, you should still avoid pushing bigger gears until you’ve ridden your base miles. Pushing too big a gear before you’ve built up the leg muscle and cardiovascular engine will put much more strain on your joints (especially your knees) at a time when the weather is still cold. You don’t want a nagging knee injury early in the season.
2. Not servicing your bike. You’ve taken it out over the winter or its been on the trainer, and it’s riding fine, so? If you didn’t do a complete tear down over the winter (and many riders don’t) consider at least doing a tune up, and either lubricating or changing the cables. Spring is also a good time to put on new tires (perhaps narrower than what you rode over the winter) and replace the chain and cassette if worn. If you rode over the winter there’s a good chance your bike was exposed to sand or salt too.
3. Crashing on sand (or ice). March weather in the northeast is notoriously variable. The spring solstice may have arrived but it’s still going below freezing at night and any standing water is going to be frozen in the morning. Road crews have not yet swept up debris and sand yet, there’s a significant chance of crashing on sand or loose gravel at this time of year. You don’t want to start the year with a broken collarbone.
4. Not dressing properly. Look at what the other people on the group ride are wearing. If everyone else is in full length tights or knickers and you’re in shorts and short sleeves, what does that tell you? Yes, it’s warm in your driveway or the parking lot but do not be deceived. Once you get moving it will be much colder. The sun can go behind clouds, temperatures can drop. On one March commute I rode the final 5 miles in snow and sleet- always check the weather. What is a good kit for early spring? Try bib knickers (with chamois) these should be fleece lined and will work from the mid 30s to high 50s. Go with a long sleeve baselayer, a long sleeve jersey and a vest than you can take off if it warms up. Don’t forget a hat to wear inside your helmet, full finger gloves and either toe covers or booties. If the forecast is showing big (positive) changes in temperature during the day then use knee warmers and arm warmers at the start.
5. Going too hard, too early on the group ride. You’ve been riding 10-15 minutes in the paceline, and well frankly it just feels too easy. So you go to the front and really drill it, or you attack the group on the first climb or hard section. But you’re forgetting that there’s 40 miles left to ride and there may be many more hills and tough sections. It is very easy to overestimate your reserves, because you just haven’t done many group rides yet. What you will likely discover is that without significant interval training, that 1 or 2 min. effort will begin loading up your legs with lactic acid. Now you’re struggling and one of the other riders who is stronger attacks and you’re off the back. How embarrassing. Don’t let this be you. Be patient, make sure not to over extend yourself too early. Better to be dropped with 5 miles to go than 25 miles to go.
Remember, you have all summer to go fast and go long. Make your early season count by focusing on base miles, limited duration efforts like spin ups, and 85-90% efforts on the climbs and lots of tempo riding.
Let me start by saying that I am a late adopter. There are many of us. We were the ones carrying around an iPhone 7 when the 13 came out. We clung to vinyl when CDs came out, we argued that digital photography couldn’t possibly be better than film. So when the bike industry announced tubeless tires, I was understandably dubious about a technology shift that I perceived to be yet another marketing ploy. Interestingly, the first place I started seeing tubeless was in Cyclocross. Back in 2009 when I first tried cross, a lot of riders will still on cantilever brakes and glued on tubulars. While tubular tires were light and could be run at low pressure, they were expensive and if you wanted more than one tire for different conditions then you needed multiple sets of tubular rims. In 2015 or so when I got my first disc brake CX bike, it came with tubeless ready rims. While I used that bike for both cross and gravel races, I was routinely getting flats on gravel, both punctures and pinch flats. I ditched the tubes for a tubeless set up and was amazed that I could go 2+ years without a flat on gravel rides (flats in CX are less common). But what about road tubeless? Most of what I read were horror stories of people fighting with tires that refused to go on the rims, broken tire levers, messy sealant and much yelling and profanity. So I stayed with road tubes on my Pinarello, which had some nice carbon rims on it. Yes, I occasionally got punctures and pinch flats, but given my years of experience I could routinely change out a tube on a ride in under 5 minutes. I can only think of one or two times where I got stranded and had to call for a ride, mainly because my spare tube was leaking.
Fast forward to 2025 when I got a new bike, a Cannondale System 6. The bike has deep (64 mm) and relatively wide (25 mm) rims, and shipped with 25 mm Vittoria Rubino Speed tires, with tubes. These tires proved to be awful, I was averaging a flat every week. I flatted twice on the Wednesday night training ride. I even managed to flat at the weekly time trial, with 5 miles to go to the finish, on a night where I was on track to generate my best time. Worse yet, due to the newer rim design, it no longer was a 5 minute job to change a tube, it was taking 15 minutes with a lot of effort to get the clinchers off and on the rims. In retrospect the relatively narrow 25C tires were a poor fit for those rims and I’m not sure why Cannondale shipped the bikes that way. At the advice of a friend, I ordered a set of 29 mm Enve SES tubeless tires. Setting them up was a fair amount of work, they are a chore to get on the rims. (I would later learn there are methods to make it easier, such as warming up the tires in hot water, mounting them on “easier” clincher rims with tubes to stretch them etc.) Once I got them mounted, I struggled to get the bead to seat, even with a compressor. It turns out a trick of taping around the tire with packaging tape helped get the beads seated. Once I got the sealant in, I could immediately ride the bike, although I decided to see if they held pressure overnight (they did). The first ride was a revelation. At lower pressure (60-70 psi) the bike rode better than it ever did on tubes. The tubeless set up is superior on rough, chip seal pavement and rough roads. You can ride through a pothole and not get a pinch flat. There is significantly less rolling resistance, therefore more speed. You don’t have to take my word for it, there are labs that test rolling resistance. Yes, the tubeless set up is heavier than skinny 23c tires with tubes, but it is faster under nearly every condition. It is a way more comfortable ride, a game changer really. Years ago, to get anywhere near this kind of ride you’d have to ride on expensive sew-ups (tubular) tires, and that just wasn’t practical for every day training. The best part is I have not gotten a single flat since making the switch. What if I do get a flat? I carry plugs. In a worst case scenario, I might have to put in a tube, which could be a challenge on the side of the road. In that instance I would probably call for a ride. But that is a relatively rare occurrence. The time trial series is over for the season, but I can’t wait to race the next one on Tubeless because I know it I will be faster.
And why Texas and Florida laws are unconstitutional and should be struck down.
Disclaimer: I am not a constitutional lawyer, but you do not need to be one to understand the basic principles of the first amendment. The first amendment protects individual’s rights to free speech and also mandates that government cannot restrict free speech. While those are the fundamental building blocks of the 1A, it is important to remember that the 1A does not guarantee unlimited free speech. Courts have ruled- and those rulings have been upheld- that certain types of speech (defamation, libel, hate speech or speech inciting violence) can be regulated or limited.
In 2021, both Texas and Florida passed new laws that attempt to force social media platforms (such as Facebook, Instagram, Twitter/X etc.) to retain objectionable content. The laws are written in a manner to prevent media platforms from suspending or kicking off conservative/rightwing users, especially politicians. It is important to understand what the two state laws do. Florida’s law, which can be found here, forbids social media platforms from “deplatforming” (also known as kicking someone off) candidates for Statewide office and any other candidates, and imposes fines if media companies deplatform (remove) a user. So for example, if a far-right congresswoman (Marjorie Taylor Green for example) posts dangerous and false Q-anon conspiracy theories accusing former Secretary of State Hillary Clinton of operating a child-sex ring, and Facebook suspend’s Green’s account, then Facebook would be in violation of the Florida law and could be fined $25,000 a day. Texas SB5 defines social media companies as “common carriers” and then attempts to control how media companies manage users content. For example, The Texas law prohibits social media platforms from taking down content based on the “viewpoint” of the user or expressed in the post. The law gives individuals and the state’s attorney general the right to file lawsuits against the platforms for violations. This “bounty-hunting” lawsuit model is nothing new for Texas, which passed a law allowing citizens to sue doctors or hospitals for abortions. Abbott and AG Paxson use of state or citizen lawuits to force companies how to run their businesses are a form of fascism and state control that should be opposed by all libertarians and anyone who cares about individual freedom and the constitution.
While I will address why these laws should be struck down by the Supreme Court, let’s first understand the motivation for these laws. The passage of these laws are based on a common rightwing and GOP narrative that there exists media bias (they often deride “mainstream media” as biased against conservatives) and that this bias extends to social media companies like Facebook (and Twitter/X prior to its purchase by Elon Musk). While it is true that social media companies deplatformed Trump as well as other far-right voices and stories, the deplatforming or content restriction was often justified. The far-right (or Alt-right) is increasingly relying on conspiracy theories and disinformation to spread its message and fuel its political movement, including but not limited to the MAGA movement. Social media companies removing the conspiratorial and false content limits the far-right and MAGA message and movement, therefore Abbott and DeSantis felt the need to step in and pass legislation to force media companies to retain objectionable content. The laws on their own advance the GOP narrative that social media companies are liberal and biased and need to be controlled, but the laws also rely on an authoritarian component to impose fines or criminal violations. Isn’t it ironic that these two extremist Governors- who have passed laws dictating what teachers can teach, have banned books that they don’t agree with, now want to dictate to Facebook how it regulates content? The social media laws purport to protect users free speech- this is rich from DeSantis who passed a “Don’t say Gay bill” as well as other “anti-woke” legislation, and used the power of the state to try and punish Disney Corporation for its free speech. At one point DeSantis even tried to pass a law that would make it illegal for the press to criticize the Governor- also known as HIM.
Here are the reasons the Florida and Texas laws need to be struck down:
Social media companies are not broadcasters (I.e. they are not TV stations and FCC regulated). They are privately held or public corporations and therefore entitled to have their own terms of service. The terms of service are basically a user agreement, in which users agree to certain limits on their posts (typically not allowed are pornography, hate speech, violent threats etc.)
The Supreme Court already ruled (even though many disagree with that ruling) that Corporations are people. In other words, Disney Corporation is entitled to its free speech, just as you and I are.
Social media posts are not protected by the first amendment- not completely anyway. While Ted Cruz is free to stand on a street corner and make a speech claiming that Biden took a $10M bribe (Biden didn’t), if Facebook reviews the claim and determines it to be false, then Facebook has the right to remove Cruz’ false posts or even to kick Cruz off the platform for his repeated violations of posting false information.
As mentioned above, free speech can be restricted if it incites violence. Therefore social media companies (while not Government) can censor objectionable content.
No one is forcing anyone to use Facebook, X or other platforms. If conservatives don’t like Facebook’s policies then they are free to use X or TruthSocial or other rightwing friendly platforms.
Hate speech is not protected, social media companies can ban Nazis or other White Supremacist content on their platforms.
Social media corporations own speech is protected under the 1A. Which means that Meta can regulate its content and decide what is and isn’t appropriate. DeSantis and Abbott have basically stepped in and said “no” the State will now dictate the way you run your company.
With regard to deplatforming, censoring or blocking political candidates, can anyone imagine a scenario in which an extremist candidate wants to place an offensive ad in a magazine, Newspaper or TV (or on a billboard) and the owner refusing to run the offensive ad, and then the State stepping in and trying to force the media owners to run the political ad? Because that is basically what the Texas and Florida laws do.
Social media companies have a large audience reach and therefore have a moral obligation to police their content, especially if not policing the content could lead to their being sued. So for example if multiple politicians or far-right users publish false content asserting that Ivermectin (basically horse dewormer) can cure COVID, and multiple people end up dying, the media companies have an obligation to remove the harmful content.
The recent defamation lawsuit and subsequent award against Fox News for spreading election lies and claims that Dominion voting machines changed votes should serve as a warning to media companies that knowingly publishing false information puts the corporation at risk.
Summary: Texas and Florida’s laws are a clear violation of social media companies free speech rights, as well as their right to operate their businesses and control their content, as they see fit. Media content is not filtered by state, therefore what is to prevent Mississippi or another state from passing similar laws trying to dictate how Meta or others run their businesses- which are located outside Mississippi.
While States such as Florida and Texas can pass laws that regulate how companies within their state borders do business (for example Disney or Tesla), how can a state pass a law regulating a company that is based in another state? California could restrict a company in Los Angeles from polluting the air or water, but it has no right to restrict the free speech of that company in California or anywhere else.
The Florida and Texas laws are a naked authoritarian act by two of the most fascist Governors in the country. In fact, DeSantis and Abbott if allowed- would operate like China, Iran or North Korea and would block certain media sites that they don’t like from being used within their state borders (another clear 1A violation).
The Texas and Florida laws reek of partisanship and propaganda. They are essentially a form of information control, in which DeSantis and a willing GOP legislature decide for Floridians what is acceptable to access- only the content which DeSantis wants them to see.
Sometimes you head out on the bike and you’re just not feeling it. Tired or dead legs, lack of motivation, you’re fighting to hang onto the group or keep getting dropped. Before throwing in the towel, sitting up and going home, try the following:
Remember to pedal circles. Even though you ride a lot and pedaling should be instinctive, on bad days you may just be powering on your downstroke and not pulling pack. The proper, smooth 360 degree pedaling technique often requires a conscious effort and focus to do correctly. In addition to pedaling circles, try lifting your knees towards the bars on each upstroke- this engages your hip flexors and can augment your power and potentially engage muscles that you didn’t overuse the previous day.
If your legs are getting lactic acid build up, try an easier gear and higher cadence. A higher cadence will shift some load off your muscles to your cardiovascular system.
Don’t forget to hydrate! This can happen on hard rides, you’re down on the drops working hard and forget to drink (or eat). Make sure to get fluids in when you’re at the back of the pace line.
Try a few sprints. Hard efforts seem counterintuitive, but these “openers” prime your biochemical pathways and can wake up your legs for the rest of the ride.
Relax your upper body on the bike- elbows bent, back flat (not hunched). The lower half of your body is doing the work. Your core should be engaged, especially if on the drops.
If you’re riding solo, there is no shame in just riding easy that day. Training works best when brain and body are motivated. Maybe stop, take a break, have a coffee etc.
If you’re with a group, try to finish the ride with the group, or tell yourself that you will hang on as long as you can. If you’re rotating through then keep your pulls very short. Don’t be afraid to skip a pull or just sit on the back. As a ride leader I’d much rather you finish the ride sitting on, versus you trying to be a martyr, taking many pulls and then getting dropped. If the pace is really fast it is going to take concentration to stay tight on a wheel so y ou can get the maximum draft.
Break the ride down into sections. Every ride or race has more difficult sections that you will have to push through.
Do you have a tip on how to turn around a ride that’s not going well? Please comment!
Understanding how vaccines work in large populations requires some depth in understanding of vaccine development, clinical trials, medicine, immunology, virology , epidemiology, population dynamics and human behavior. Most Americans lack a basic understanding of these subjects. It is not because Americans are “stupid,” it is because most of us did not pursue a career in medicine or science. Unfortunately average citizens with a lack of general scientific knowledge in biology and medicine and very vulnerable to misunderstanding, oversimplification faulty conclusions about viruses and vaccines. The problem is compounded by huge amounts of disinformation, which is readily spread via social media such as Facebook and Twitter. Vaccines and COVID have also been politicized- often by politicians or right wing media who also lack scientific understanding.
To begin with, the notion that a human can just get an injection of a vaccine, for example the polio vaccine, and then be forever immune and protected from a challenge or exposure to poliovirus is a fallacy. Dr. Fauci said right from the start that in order to achieve “herd immunity” a certain percent of Americans would need to be fully (meaning one initial vaccine plus booster) vaccinated. He also added that we did not know what that percentage was… it might be 50%, it could be as high as 80%. Why though?
First, in each individual vaccines are not 100% effective. In fact the criteria for efficacy of COVID vaccines- which were developed rapidly and under emergency conditions- was >50% efficacy. This implies that of 100 patients tested, only 50 would develop a measurable immune response sufficient enough to neutralize the virus. Vaccines do not need to be 100% effective (I.e. 100 of 100 people immunized develop neutralizing antibodies) to work. For every 100 people immunized there is going to be a spectrum of subjects that produce a robust immune response vs. others who produce a weak immune response. This stratification can be overcome however, by the use of boosters. This is because of how your immune system works. At first challenge with the virus (or antigen) it can take several days for the B-cells (which produce neutralizing antibodies) to multiply enough to mount a robust immune response. In addition your body has both a humoral and cellular immune response, so T-cells will eliminate infected cells and tissues. Because of the presence of memory cells, when a patient is boosted (second challenge) the immune response is much more rapid and robust, wiping out the challenge virus quickly. This is why children tend to get a ton of cold viruses, but adults don’t.
If you could, on a single day, immunize 330 million Americans with the COVID vaccine (100% immunization) followed by a booster, it is very likely that the virus could be, at least temporarily, eradicated. However a mass vaccination like this is not possible due to logistical issues. Due to the rate of vaccine manufacturing, distribution and administration it took months to reach the point where we even had 50% of adults vaccinated. Children could not immediately be vaccinated, due to the lagging data on the pediatric clinical trials and safety concerns.
In essence we ended up with a partially vaccinated population, where not all Americans were vaccinated and even fewer were fully vaccinated (meaning a booster). There was also a certain percent of the population that just refused the vaccine. While the mass vaccination did reduce the spread of COVID, new cases and deaths, the virus was never eliminated and continued to propagate in unvaccinated individuals. COVID was also still propagating outside the United States, therefore our population both vaccinated and unvaccinated was still susceptible to new strains of COVID arising either domestically or abroad.
The other misconception about the COVID vaccine, was that people (wrongly) think that if you’re vaccinated that implies you cannot be infected, nor can you transmit the virus to others. That might true for other vaccines such as smallpox or polio, but as already mentioned vaccines are rarely 100% effective. Being vaccinated against polio does not guarantee you cannot be infected. If properly vaccinated and boosted it guarantees that if you’re exposed to polio that you won’t get sick or will only get minor symptoms. In reality the COVID vaccine works more like the flu vaccine, in that the vaccine is based on a certain prevalent strain of virus and may or may not fully protect you. In fact the medical evidence showed that fully vaccinated individuals- while they could be infected with COVID- did not develop serious or life threatening symptoms. These vaccinated individuals therefore might only have minor cold virus symptoms and could spread the COVID virus to others. The unvaccinated population then is more susceptible since they are basically unprotected.
The other factor in COVID is the mutation rate. Coronaviruses (and RNA virus in general) can mutate rapidly, and subsequently evade the immune system. The virus mutates much faster than humans can design new vaccines to protect against each new strain. Scientists have tried to stay ahead of the viruses by making predictions about which variant will arise next, or by making cocktail vaccines that protect against multiple variants (such as the bivalent vaccine).
Human perception and behavior also affect vaccine uptake. Because of the huge amount of disinformation and the existence of anti-vax pseudoscience and conspiracy theories, many Americans just avoided the COVID vaccines. Several of the prominent anti-vaxxers have died from COVID. Some American’s perceptions about COVID such as “I won’t get sick” or “it’s just like a head cold or the flu” or it’s not dangerous unless I have other medical conditions, or it only kills old people have also inhibited vaccine uptake. Aside from having to go and get vaccinated and boosted, the day after your vaccination you may feel rotten or miss work or school, a side effect that wasn’t common with other vaccines. If you’ve ever had the shingles vaccine plus booster you may know what I mean.
The end result of all this is that vaccine effectiveness and viral transmission depends on a whole bunch of factors and variables that aren’t easily modeled or predicted. When the pandemic began, most scientists agreed that the only way out of the pandemic was herd immunity achieved by mass vaccination, and that could take two years. They were largely correct, despite the oversimplified, scientifically flawed counter arguments that politicians and non-scientists have made.
Misinformation and flawed concepts are propagated by laymen because they are easily reduced to simple sentences and easily spread. Therefore you hear “the COVID vaccine doesn’t work, because my uncle got vaccinated and he still got COVID.” Or “masks do nothing.” These type of statements are oversimplifications, the first one drawing a conclusion on the vaccine from one person rather than large populations, the second one making a blanket statement that isn’t supported by data.
The vaccines did work, they just didn’t work in the way most people thought they would work. But that is because most people’s concepts of how typical vaccines work did not apply to COVID. The reality of polio and smallpox is that those viruses did not immediately disappear, it also took time for mass vaccination to eliminate the viruses in the population.
Some aspects of Zwift riding or racing mirror those of real life. Others do not. However, just like real life racing, there is a learning curve for Zwift racing. After doing quite a few events I’ve learned a few tactics and strategies. I will share a few of them here.
Warm up! Regardless if it’s a ride or race, you definitely want to do your usual stretches and warm up routine before the timer hits zero. The only exception is if the ride shows a warm up period built in, or uses a fence in the first 10-15 minutes. Otherwise use a typical cyclocross or criterium warmup- 10 min easy, then ramp up to 80% max HR for 5 min and do several 30-60 sec efforts at 90% max HR. It is important to do the hard efforts (openers) because it will prime your legs and cardio systems for the fast start.
Power up 5-10 sec. before the clock hits zero. If you wait for the timer to hit zero before pedaling or are doing an easy 1.5 w/kg, your race might be over before it even starts. With 10 sec. to the start, spin up to a higher power, like 3.5-4.0 w/kg or higher depending on your race group. This will ensure that when the timer hits zero that your avatar will slingshot ahead with the fast riders.
Like a real crit or CX holeshot, the first few minutes of a Zwift race are gonna be really fast. This is especially true of races where the A, B, C, D categories all start together. A B-rider can draft off the A group and get some time gap, or you may get a smaller group of B’s that form a pack, with a chance to stay clear of the rest of your field.
The pace will calm down. Inevitably most riders in your group will not be able to maintain that blistering pace forever. So you will see after a few minutes the pace will settle down and a pack or group form. That is where you want to be for the first part of the race, to save energy.
Save energy, especially early on. A common mistake- and I am guilty- is to go too hard too early. Your legs will feel good the first lap and it’s tempting to hammer on the climb and drop people. Don’t do it. You will need your legs later in the race when it really matters. So the first 1 or 2 laps in a 3 lap race you should settle into a comfortable pace.
Do not be the first one up the climb, unless it is the final climb to the finish. Again, by riding at the front you’re expending more energy. You might think you’re forcing the other riders to chase you, but often they won’t because they are in a group and they know that you won’t stay clear once the speed picks up. If there is a group of 10 on a climb you do not want to be all the way at the back either though. Try to position yourself in the first 3-4 riders so that when you go over the top you are on a wheel for the descent. If you are the first one over the climb, the riders behind you can slingshot past you on the downhill, forcing you to chase and close a gap, right after you did a hard effort up the climb. (Ask me how I know this!)
Do not bother with sprints and KOMs unless there is a time bonus. The goal is to win the race, not the sprint.
Pay attention to the time gaps. On your display you can see if there is a group ahead or behind and the time splits. If you are gaining on the group ahead then keep the pressure on.
The group will generally slow down on the last lap, until the finish draws near. Assuming the time gap to the group ahead is large enough and the group behind is not gaining, you may see riders drop the pace a bit. Use this time to recover, save energy, stay on a wheel and not work too hard. Remember to drink/eat if needed, towel off etc.
How you handle the finish depends a lot on your strengths and weaknesses as a rider. If you’re a strong sprinter then you definitely want to be patient and not go too early. You might even be sprinting from 100 or 200 meters out. On the other hand if you’re not a great sprinter but have good 1 min, 2 and 5 min power then you might try an early escape, especially if you see another rider itching to do so. It’s going to be hard to stay clear of a fast pack, even with 1 mile to go. But I have seen riders be successful if they got a large gap and just drilled it to the finish. You won’t know until you try!
You might consider changing your settings to km instead of miles. Then you can see when you’re at 300 meters which provides a better estimate of when to start your sprint vs distance in feet or miles.
Use your power-ups if the race allows them! But make sure you learn what each does and when to use them and not to use them. For example the feather is wasted on a flat or a descent. The aero boost is of more value at the front and the draft boost is of more value in the pack. Sometimes you should use a power up to close a gap or just to save energy or recover. But save them for really when needed. If you notice yourself struggling on a certain 12% climb then save your feather for that spot. Always save it on the last lap for the final climb or sprint to the finish!
Can the Datsun 240Z beat a Porsche costing much more money?
Let’s hop into our time machine and head back to 1972. I picked 1972 because it was the pinnacle year for the 240Z- the last model year before the heavier bumpers and smog carbs on the ’73Z, but more refined than the series one and earlier ’71 240Z cars in terms of its amenities and interior. By 1972, Datsun had taken the feedback from its customer base and dealer network and eliminated many of the 240Z’s shortcomings from the 1970 and 1971 production years. The MSRP of the 240Z in 1972 was $4106.
The 240Z will face off against the formidable Porsche 911, which in 1972 sold for a base price of $7250 for the 911T (touring model). Porsche was hard at work too, given that the 911 model dated back to 1963, they had nearly a decade to improve and refine it. While the 911 in 1972 was available in three different trim levels (T, E and S), I chose the lower priced 911T for this comparison. The 911T was closest to the 240Z in power output. The 911S was much more expensive, and more a purpose built track car.
Can the Datsun beat the Porsche, which cost nearly double the price? Or is the Datsun a lower quality, cheap imitator trying to pose as a real sports car? What is it like to own and drive these cars today?
Keep in mind the following: Cars will be compared in their stock form, without any modifications. Yes, we know you can put a cam, triple carbs and headers on your 240Z and make it faster than a 911, but that’s not how it was sold. Only original equipment, or factory or dealer options are fair game for this comparison.
We will compare these cars based on the categories below and then try to come up with an overall score to determine the victor:
Price/Value
Exterior Styling
Models and options/accessories
Engine
Transmission
Interior
HVAC and amenities
Suspension and Ride Quality
Wheels and tires
Handling & Dynamics
Acceleration and speed (aka “Performance”)
Build quality
Collectible value (2021)
Price/Value: The 240Z at $4100 was an absolute bargain. It was basically priced similar to the popular mid-size Oldsmobile Cutlass, making it just as affordable as the typical family car. Moreover, the 240Z was economical to own, as it was relatively reliable and provided great fuel economy. The Porsche at $7250 was not cheap, and keep in mind that was the less expensive touring model. The 911E and S cost more, with the S topping out at over $10,800 base price. So the Porsche was a much more expensive car, even back in 1972. Winner: 240Z
Exterior styling: These are both very good looking sports cars. The 911 Coupe has always been the better looking body style vs. the Targa variant. Both cars have a sleek fastback design, with a rear quarter window. The Porsche still has front vent windows, the Datsun opted to eliminate these. The Datsun has a longer nose to accommodate the inline-6 engine. With no motor up front, the Porsche has a slanted hood to provide great forward visibility. Looking at the vintage 911 makes you realize just how large the modern 911 is today. The 240Z was a completely new design, which evoked the Jaguar E-type and the Ferrari 275 GTB. Automotive reviewers heaped praise onto the 240Z’s styling. The 911 basically had the same body style that it had when introduced in 1963, albeit the 1972 had a longer wheelbase. There are no wasted lines on the 911, something that cannot be said for most of today’s sports cars. It is a classic, timeless shape that is instantly recognizable. This one is a tie.
Models and options and accessories: Unless you’re counting Japanese domestic models, there really was only a single 240Z model. In 1972, you could buy a 911 as the E, T or S version, each with different characteristics and escalating price. While all three Porsches have the same displacement (2.3L) they do not have the same power. The 911T was rated at 157 SAE gross, the E model 185 and S at 210. The S model was really a purpose built track car (more on this later). If you’re buying a newer Z (such as the 370Z) you can opt for a touring, sport or NISMO version. But there were no such choices in 1972 for the Datsun. The Datsun Z in 1972 also did not really have any factory options (other than automatic transmission). While you could choose your paint and interior color (maybe), that was about it. Everything else that you could buy your Datsun with (Slotted mag wheels, AC, louvers, dual racing mirrors, side stripes, bumper over-riders etc.) were dealer added accessories. Because demand for the 240Z was so high many dealers added these accessories to drive up the price of the car. The Porsche on the other hand, offered real factory options. And like today’s 911, the options did not come cheap. While base price of the 911T tested by Car & Driver was $7382, the price as tested was $8804, indicating nearly $1500 in options.
Porsche options included air conditioning ($737), front and rear sway bars, front spoiler, forged aluminum (Fuchs) wheels, an appearance group ($182), hydropneumatic front suspension, Koni shock absorbers, and Recaro sport seats (a bargain at $92). You could also buy a semi-automatic (electric shift) transmission. The Porsche was also available in two body styles, coupe or targa top. Thankfully the 240Z did not come in anything but the coupe. Winner: Porsche.
Engine: The Porsche 911 in 1972 was using a higher displacement version of its air-cooled boxer flat 6. The 911T produced 157 (SAE gross) HP. All three 911 models were fuel injected. The Datsun used its robust L24 engine, which had been developed from their successful L16 block. The L24 in stock form produced 150 HP (SAE gross). From a technological and engineering perspective the L-series engine was more advanced than the Porsche. However, many reviewers didn’t like the sound of the L24 at higher RPM, especially since the noise wasn’t useful above 5000 rpm. Porsche was still using air and oil cooled engines and would continue doing so for another 25 years until the 996 generation water cooled 911 appeared. This one is a toss up.
Transmission: The US Market 240Z was only available with a 4-speed manual (or 3-speed automatic). Let’s not discuss the automatic 240Z since most sports car buyers opted for the manual gearbox. The Porsche was available with a 4-speed or 5-speed manual (or electric shift). For 1972 Porsche eliminated the dog leg gearbox of earlier 911 models. The rationale was that the dog leg made sense on the track or rural driving, since once you got out of first gear you wouldn’t use it again. However in American city or suburban driving, with its plentiful stoplights and intersections and traffic, drivers used first gear plenty. If you read reviews of these early Porsche gearboxes, the throws were extremely long and not particularly tight or snappy. One reviewer described the long throws of the 911 shifter like “rowing a canoe.” The 240Z transmission had reliable synchros and better action than the 911 linkage. Winner: Datsun.
Interior: The Porsche 911 basically used the same layout and the dash design from its 1960s models, with flat mounted black and white gauges and red needles. Modern Porsche 911 cars still have some of this DNA in their dash panels The Porsche interior is rather austere, it is completely functional but you’ve got those floor mounted pedals, no center console and a stick shift that looks like it came out of a school bus. The 240Z dash and interior were really over the top, with the large tach and spedometer and center gauges. The end vents on the Z dash look futuristic, like out of the Jetsons or at least something you’d find on an airplane. The Z offered a woodgrain steering wheel and wooden shift knob. The 240Z features a center console, which Porsche at that time did not offer.
It might be a matter of personal taste here, but the Z interior, especially if fitted with an armrest makes it more comfortable. The Datsun’s dash is more modern looking. In fact, I think many early Z owners take for granted just how good the Z interior is. The dash has everything you need, the controls for the heat and air are easily reached and adjusted. The one negative on the Z interior was the use of cheaper looking vinyl on the transmission tunnel. The Datsun’s hatchback offered real luggage space, whereas the Porsche had its very cramped relatively useless rear seats. Winner: Datsun.
HVAC and amenities
Porsche– what is heat? It is no secret that 911s did not have efficient heat, as the engine is in the rear and it was an air cooled design. A gasoline burning (really?) auxiliary heater was offered as a way to keep the front of the car warm. The Z had no such issues, reviewers liked the Datsun’s heat and defroster efficiency. You could get either the Datsun or Porsche with AC, although the Datsun was a dealer add on whereas the 911 could be ordered with factory AC. Datsun provided most amenities standard, including a rear defroster, AM-FM radio with power antenna, map light, underhood inspection lamp etc.
Suspension: Both cars feature fully independent suspension but achieve it in different ways. The Datsun used MacPherson struts on all 4 corners, using lower control arms and a radius rod up front, and Chapman type control arms in the rear. The Porsche uses MacPherson struts up front and trailing arms in the rear, but the design did not have a good camber pattern and allowed the wheels to lean away from the turns as the body rolls, and have no provision for anti-brake dive. The 240Z suspension was not perfect, but it did not have the design issues of the 911. On the flip side, the Porsche is the better riding car. More than one reviewer noted the 240Z harsh ride, especially at lower speeds and a fair amount of body roll. Let’s call this one a tie.
Wheels and tires: The Datsun came with 5″ wide 14″ steel rims and stamped wheel covers. Well they had to cut costs somewhere. The Porsche 911T came from the factory with 5.5″ wide steel rims with 165HR15 tires. Porsche was clearly ahead here with larger diameter rims. more wheel options and high performance rubber. Winner: Porsche.
Handling and Dynamics: Do we need to delve into the engineering challenges of a rear engine car with 65% weight bias? The oversteer issue of the early 911 is well documented and unless “you know how to drive a 911” you will spin it out. All you need to do is take your foot off the accelerator as you exit the turn! In contrast the Datsun had 53/47 weight distribution and very predictable handling with slight understeer. It is not that easy to spin out a 240Z. So the 240Z had much more neutral handling, you could certainly get it to slide in a corner, but predictably so. Of course a Porsche owner will tell you that it just takes a skilled driver to drive the 911 properly, and that once you learn it, then oversteer is your friend! The reality here is that Porsche spent between 1963-1972 trying to move more weight to the front of the 911 and lighten everything in the rear. After 1972 they would spend another 20 years engineering out the trailing throttle oversteer. They accomplished this in part by using much wider rubber in the back of the 911. Winner: Datsun.
Acceleration and Speed: The 911 dating back to the early 1970s has always been a quick car. The 911T posted 0-60 in 6.9 sec and a 1/4 mile time of 15.1 at 92 mph. The 240Z was tested by Car and Driver in 1970 posted 0-60 in 7.8 sec and the 1/4 mile in 16.1 at 87 mph. So the Z is close to 1 sec closer in each- probably handicapped by its 3.36 rear end ratio. Keep in mind that the 911T was significantly slower than the more powerful 911E. Winner: Porsche.
The 240Z in #110 Red, for 1972 was offered with either black or white interior.
Build quality: The 240Z was built to a $4000 price point, the Porsche was never cheap. As a Japanese car and a Datsun, one could not help but notice the cheaper materials used on the interior (I.e. vinyl, the plastic interior panels), the original seats did not hold up well. The Datsun body had more the feel of a tin can, with relative thin sheet metal. Moreover the chassis did not exactly excel in rigidity, making the car harsh and jarring on bad pavement or potholes. The reviewers were much more laudatory about the Porsche’s ride quality. In terms of the overall build and quality of materials, you have to give this one to Porsche. Winner: Porsche.
Collectible value: The collectible value today is reflective of the car’s pricing when new, the Porsche coming in much higher. For a #1 (Concours) condition car, the 240Z is valued at around $90,000, whereas the Porsche is close to $150,000. Thus the Porsche has maintained its roughly 1.7x price difference from when the cars were new. There are several other factors though that impact the value of the cars: Production of the 911 was much lower; in the early 1970s Porsche was only producing around 5000 per year, with those being split between the T, S and E models, as well as Coupe or Targa. Thus, generally speaking a early 1970s vintage 911 is more rare than a 240Z. There were roughly 150,000 240Z models produced in the 4-year span between 1970-1973 and in 1972 over 50,000 240Z were sold in North America. Overall you may also be more likely to find Porsche cars in #1 or #2 condition, with less modifications than the Datsuns.
As noted above, the Datsun was built to a price point, with many owners making performance modifications to improve power and handling. Porsche offered more of these type of upgrades through the factory via its higher trim lines (E or S) as well as factory optional equipment.
Don’t let them fool you. A rape or incest exception puts the burden of proof on the victim, and Red States will set these requirements, making them next to impossible to meet.
Given the blowback of Dobbs, many GOP politicians are scrambling to moderate their position on abortion, saying that they “support a rape/incest/mother’s life in danger” exception to the otherwise onerous Red State laws and abortion bans.
You should not believe or trust them and here is why: because who will decide (how, and when) whether a woman was raped or was a victim of incest? What will the burden of proof be? An accusal? A police report? A court conviction? a DNA test? All of these things are problematic from a legal perspective.
Rape victims already face hurdles trying to prove their cases. Many sexual assault victims are afraid to come forward. There may not be physical evidence of a rape. Even if there is DNA evidence, that isn’t enough to prove rape. The rapist can argue the sex was consensual.
Consider the following scenario, a college freshmen in Alabama goes to a fraternity party, is given alcohol and then date raped by one or more of the fraternity. A few weeks later on discovering that she is pregnant, she would be unable to get an abortion in states that have complete bans. With a rape exception, how would she prove she was raped? It becomes her word against the frat boy who can argue it was consensual. Date rape is a real thing and if the girl was under the influence she may not even remember being raped or know who the rapist was.
When seeking an abortion she would now need to prove to the State of Alabama that she is a rape victim- which could be a long and difficult legal process of its own.
Red States that provide these exceptions could set their own legal standards of proof. Given the recent history of Red States like Texas and Mississippi creating more and more hurdles to get a legal abortion, would you trust those states to not create multiple barriers to proving rape or incest?
Multiple red states passed waiting periods, mandatory counseling, mandatory ultrasounds, and then made more and more onerous requirements on doctors and clinics to put them out of business. Effectively Texas had banned abortion long before Dobbs.
The “life of the mother” exception is another pipe dream. Medical law already says that hospitals and doctors must make all attempts to save someone’s life. But when a mom comes into an ER bleeding out, who will decide if her life is really at risk? And what is the chance she will die? 10%? 50% 90%? Yet the Red State laws will now put this difficult decision- should I terminate a preganancy to protect my own life- into the hands of the State or a hospital attorney.
Congratulations, Red States you have now created the death panels you warned us about back when you were fighting the ACA (Obamacare)!
My conclusion is that these “exceptions” will be so difficult to meet or prove that they will be meaningless. The legal process alone can take weeks or months, by that point the pregnancy will have progressed to the 2nd or 3rd trimester and the state won’t allow an abortion regardless.
After a series of mishaps, the author started believing his Z was cursed
The Back story
How I came to own the now blue metallic 1971 Series One 240Z is its own story. My connection to the 240Z began with my father’s 1972 240Z, a car which he had bought new from Marmac Datsun in Englewood NJ, in 1972. The 240Z was finished in 918 Orange and was my father’s mid-life crisis car. Despite my mom’s protestations, he got the manual transmissions, so she wasn’t able to drive it. After a few years of ownership, my older brother Jay, who was the household wrench, became the car’s dedicated mechanic. While Jay had done some work on the engine to make it faster, he also sped around in the car and drove it aggressively. On a ski trip to Vermont, with his 16 year old girlfriend, he drove the car off a snow covered road in Vermont, through a cow fence and into a field, damaging the nose and bending the frame. The car also had a bad case of Northeast Rust.
While I was able to keep the orange ’72 240Z going through college, it reached the point where the cost to restore it was too high compared to finding another more rust free car. Enter the 1971 Series One. One of my dad’s clients (he was an accountant) somehow how had a 1971 Safari Gold Series One 240Z sitting in his yard, under a tree, in Monsey, NY. The client owed my dad some accounting fees, so he agreed to give us the car in lieu of the fees (about $800 in 1983). The Safari Gold ’71 was no beauty either. At some point, it had been hit in the front so the hood and valence were bashed, and it had been hit on the right quarter panel. One quarter panel had serious amounts of bondo on it. The car also sported a cheap set of slotted mags (common on early Z’s back then) and a black vinyl roof. It had dealer installed AC- which didn’t work and an automatic transmission. The ’72 Z served as a donor for the 4-speed and clutch pedal, as well as a few other parts. But despite its engine recently being rebuilt, we didn’t use the motor from the 1972 because it wouldn’t be a matching numbers car.
Restoration 1
Most of the body work was completed in 1984 by a body shop in Pearl River NY. I provided them NOS Nissan quarter panels as well as full inner fenders, a new steel hood, new door skins and front fenders. My brother, also a welding and brazing expert, repaired most of the rust in the floors and frame and spent quite a while extracting frozen bolts and nuts from the body. The car was painted in Pacific Blue Metallic, a 1974 260Z color. We gradually put her all back together and got her driving, and though she had a tired L24, she now finally had a manual gearbox.
Curse 1- the hood
After the car was finished, I flew back home from grad school and drove it back to Illinois. I found a garage to store the Z. Knowing that the restored Z couldn’t be winter driven, I bought an old Ford for a winter car. I had only had the Z at school for a few days and was stopped at a stop light on Green Street, the main drag through University Of Illinois, Urbana Champaign. At the traffic light there was one car in front of me, and apparently the driver decided he had pulled too far into the intersection. He backed up without looking! I hit my horns, but it was too late. He backed right into my beautiful Z and damaged the brand new hood and paint job. The kid that backed into my Z had literally just gotten his driver’s license. I think his mom ended up paying the repair out of pocket. Luckily there would be no further incidents while I was in grad school.
Curse 2- Joshua Tree
After grad school, the Z came home to NY/NJ and I stored her in my dad’s garage in Pearl River. At that point, we had the L24 rebuilt and added a bunch of headwork including a cam, headers and triple carbs. Once again my brother was there to tune those triple Mikunis. By 1988, NY State no longer required emissions testing on a 1971 car, so we were able to make the swap.
After only a couple years in NJ, I headed for a new life and job out in San Diego, CA. At that time the Z was my only car. I no longer needed a winter car, the Z became a daily driver. However by this point it was 1991 and the Z was also now 20 years old and approaching classic status. At some point one of the rear hatch hinges broke, so I found another hatch rather than trying to weld the broken one. I took the Z to Joshua Tree for a weekend of camping, and was out hiking and on returning, someone in my group came up to me with a distressed look on their face. My Z was safely parked (so I thought); I had even chosen a good spot which had plenty of room on both sides. Never the less, the girlfriend of one of my coworkers, who was also an inexperienced young driver, came into the parking lot too fast, tried parking in the spot next to my Z and managed to slam her Honda into the back of my Z. The collision damaged the otherwise perfect quarter panel, bumper and lo and behold she also damaged the hatch that I had just bought. The girls mother paid for the body shop work on that one.
Curse 3- the driver’s door dents
You would think after having two inexperienced teenage drivers hit my Series One Z, the bad luck would be over! Wrong! My car was parked in a garage at my apartment in Solana Beach. But the garage was shared with another tenant. My Z was now under a nice cloth car cover. I took off the cover and noticed a whole bunch of dents on the driver’s side of the car. The other tenant’s kid was getting out of their car and banging the passenger door right into my Z. At first, the neighbor argued that it wasn’t him, so I showed him the paint and that his car door was the exact height and was causing the dents.
Curse 4- the Contractor and the end of daily driving
Now a couple years later it is 1994, and I’ve moved in with my fiancee. While I did much of my commuting back then by bike, I often also drove the Z to work on nice days. One sunny Friday morning I left for work, stopped at the intersection of a busy road and then started to pull out, but then stopped because the approaching traffic was coming too fast. The guy behind me, driving a massive pickup truck, wasn’t paying attention though. He didn’t notice that I’d stopped and plowed right into the rear of my Z, damaging the bumper, both tail lights and the rear tail light panel. I think he also damaged the quarter panel that the girl had hit years earlier. The guy was in such a hurry that he left before the police arrived. He gave me his business card and license number. This one was a lot of damage and while the insurance company paid to repair and repaint the whole rear of the car, I was done. That was the end of daily driving the 240.
Curse 5- the engine and paint debacle but is the black cat finally dead??
It was now around 1998 or 1999 and I still had the triple carbs on the car. By this point in time I’d connected with Les Cannaday and was regularly attending Datsun events and shows in Southern California. The night before one of the shows, I decided to put the velocity stacks on the triple Mikunis, rather than the K&N filters. The only problem was somehow I dropped lock washer inside one of the velocity stacks and it got sucked into the engine, damaging one of the cylinders. I spoke with Les and the car went to his shop to have the motor pulled (cylinder needed to be sleeved). With the engine out, I asked Les if he could redo the fuel and brake lines and also repaint the engine bay which had been done back in the 1980s, but needed to be repainted.
With the engine out, the car went to a body shop and somehow they got the paint totally wrong. It did not match the body color at all. Worse yet, the tape they used to mask the front fenders ended up damaging the existing paint. While the body shop tried to repaint the front fenders it became clear that they would never be able to match the paint. At that point, Les assumed responsibility and disassembled the car and they prepped and resprayed the whole car. The car was resprayed in the correct 1971 903 Blue. Finally some “good luck.” I essentially got a $5000 paint job for free.
Curse 6- the dents… again
Fast forward to 2002, the Z survived the moved to New Jersey and it was now stored in a 3 car garage to next to my wife’s Pathfinder. What is it with kids and car doors? I guess my older child, who at the time was only 7 years old was opening the door and hitting the Datsun. So I now had 3 ugly dents that I would see every time I got into the car.
End of the curse
Were 17 years of bad luck for this Series One finally over? From 1985 to 1994 it had been hit three times- in all three cases the Z was either parked or stopped. Who hits a parked car?? And after the body was all redone in the correct color paint, it now had more door dings that happened in my own garage. (Note to those with kids, I would suggest the BHMA car cover with padded sides to prevent this).
The dings in the drivers side were fixed with paintless dent repair in 2020 prior to COVID. In 2020 the Z was shipped (enclosed) to Oregon, making this it’s second stint on the West Coast.
The author’s 71 240Z finally safe and sound from the Curse?
240Z sales prices slid a bit, as a couple months ago we were seeing solid $50K+ prices for clean original #2 condition cars. March featured 8 240Z auctions, with 6 cars sold and two cars not meeting reserve. The median price (including no sales) was $29,475. The top performer was a 1971 #907 Green with tan interior, in #2 condition. Based on Hagerty evaluation this would be a $78,000 car.
The second highest value sale was a 1971 with a swapped RB25-DET motor at 39,750. Another highly modified 1973 car did not meet reserve.
There were two cars in fair condition (I.e. complete, original cars) but needing restoration or reconditioning. Both had 110 Red exterior and white interior and both topped out at around $19,000. One has got to question the value there, as a clean reconditioned #110 red car with over $20K in parts and labor sold today for $31K.
There were no #1 (Concours show quality) cars sold in March. Cars ranged from relatively rust-free originals to #2 quality (either older restoration or just not reconditioned to show quality). The results are shown below
Before you start reading: these are strictly the author’s opinion
Some might argue the 240z was perfect as it came from the factory
Here are the three things you need to know about modifications for vintage cars: (1) they typically hurt value, (2) many modifications require additional modifications, and (3) many modifications age or go out of style. The 240Z is now 50 years old and the best examples are skyrocketing in value. Think twice about modifications as to whether the performance improvement offsets the decrease in resale value. Some modifications make no sense, as they make the car worse and reduce its value.
Modifications age. What do I mean? Well, what was popular in 1980 is probably no longer popular today. So many of the modifications people did a few years back are basically worthless today because better solutions are available. This could include honeycomb wheels, cassette decks, weird paint colors, oddball interiors, or the famous Toyota 4-piston caliper upgrade.
But hey, enough introduction, let’s dig right in!
Best upgrades
5-speed gearbox and 3.7 or 3.9 rear axle. It is no secret that the US market 240Z (and early 280Z) did not get the best transmissions. The European models got a 5-speed, but US drivers had to settle for a 4-speed with a relatively low 3.36 rear axle. Apparently the Japanese designers must have thought that Americans drive 120 mph on the highway. For ’72-72 240Z that had the later “B” 4-speed, the 5-speed is a straight bolt-in option. However, as rule number (2) above states, you can rarely change just one thing, and if you opt for a 5-speed you will want at least a 3.55 rear from an automatic car or a 3.7 or 3.9 rear axle ratio. If you have an automatic 240Z, the swap to a manual transmission will make it the sports car you always wanted.
5-speed transmission
2. Front spoiler
With no front spoiler or air dam, the 240Z experienced front end lift at highway speeds. This caused wandering and instability above 75 mph and is unsafe. If you plan on driving your 240Z at highway speeds, consider adding the BRE spoiler, which bolts on to the stock valence. This is preferable to the air dam which replaces the entire valence. Do not go too low, because you will scrape curbs and be unable to use a floor jack to lift your car in the front.
3. Electrical upgrades, including: the Motorsport headlight relay, Hella H4 halogen lamps and a 60A alternator with internal regulator.
Motorsport headlight relay60A alternator
The early electrical system on a 240Z might have been okay in 1970, but the power demands of more modern equipment such as halogen headlamps, car stereos etc. require a better alternator. It is not that the battery isn’t up to the job, the original alternator was a 45-amp unit and your headlights will dim during idle and get brighter with revving the engine. If you run the blower motor on full, and have the headlamps and rear defogger on, the alternator cannot keep up.
An additional problem is that the power for the headlights went directly through the switch, causing the switch to overheat and fusebox to melt. The headlight relay requires no modifications to the original wiring harness. If you plan on driving at night , ditch the original sealed beams because with all others cars on the road today with bright lights, you won’t be able to see well. You can easily overdrive your lights on an early Z, some owners added driving lights. But the H4 halogens should get the job done. The 60A alternator will rid you of the unreliable mechanical voltage regulator.
4. Eibach Springs and ST front and rear sway bars.
Eibach springs will improve the handling, lower ~ 1″ without making the ride too harsh.
Well one reason to change springs is that the factory (Nissan) OEM Springs aren’t even available any more. The original suspension set up had quite a bit of body roll. For a street driven Z, you need to balance better handling with ride quality. A stock Z doesn’t exactly have a supple ride, so you do not want to go too stiff or you will be rattling the fillings out of your teeth. You also do not want to go too low, or you will have issues with tires rubbing the wheel well or suspension components. Keep in mind that if you lower your car 2″ then you will need to correct camber (see rule number 2). Even with 1″ lower springs, you will likely need bump steer spacers to reduce bump steer. The 240Z came with a front sway bar but no rear bar. The ST sway bars will really improve the handling and reduce body roll.
5. Three point safety belt harness. OK guys it’s 2021. If you are ONLY driving your car to Sunday morning cars and coffee or to Concours shows then leave the original belts. But otherwise they are 50 years old. Do you trust them? Do you trust your life to them? The series one Z did not have retractable belts period, and I found them a PIA, always dropping down next to the tunnel. The 72-73 had retractable seat belt, but you still had to clip on the non-retractable shoulder belt. The modern 3-point system is fully retractable and makes it much safer and more convenient to use.
6. 15 or 16″ wheels and tires. It is no secret than you cannot get performance rubber in 14″ and the choices in 15″ aren’t much better.
Modifications that may or may not make sense- depends on your needs and wants:
Remember rule #2? None of these things on its own will give you the result you want. Therefore, you’re now really considering more major modifications and significant time and money. Having once had triple carbs and a cam on my car, I will say that you can get way more power at high RPM and it does make the car more fun to drive. There are downsides though- you will need to replace the stock throttle linkage, you will no longer have the factory connection for the PCV system and valve cover breather hose. The triple carbs require more know how to jet properly and keep in tune. Honestly it is really a racing set up. But if you just aren’t satisfied with the stock motor and SU carbs, and are willing to spend the time and money, then perhaps it is for you.
2. Air conditioning
The 240Z is a hot car and uncomfortable to drive in the summer in hot climates. It has a lot of glass area, typically a black interior and a fair amount of heat comes through the floor and firewall. While the stock ventilation system was much better than most sports cars of the era, it still won’t keep you cool on a hot summer day. An added problem is that most early Z’s pull in exhaust fumes with the windows down. If you plan on driving longer distances in hot weather or use your car a lot in the summer, the AC upgrade may be for you.
The 240Z never came with “factory air.” All AC systems were dealer installed. The early systems did not cool particularly well and used R12 refrigerant. The modern system with a rotary compressor is more efficient and works with R134a.
Honorable mention: Dynamat sound deadener, which is very effective at reducing road noise. Bluetooth stereo (Alpine or Pioneer).
And now for the worst upgrades:
Sunroofs
The dreaded sunroof
The sunroof is a great example of something that was desirable in 1980 but no longer desirable today. Old sunroofs really hurt the value of a 240z, they are not easily reversed and they typically leak. There are even companies that will remove the sunroof and weld metal back in, but this is a huge job and will require repainting the car.
2. Chevy V8 swap
Who wants this when you can have an LS?
Chevy 350 (and occasionally ford 289) swaps were the de rigeur in 1975! But folks have moved onto LS motors, RB motors or various turbo swaps. The reality of the 350 4-barrel is you’re taking a 25 mpg inline six sports car and converting into a 13 mpg muscle car. If this is what you want, buy a Camaro or TransAm.
A major engine swap like LS or RB is going to require changing so many other items on the car… transmission, rear, brakes, suspension. And when all is said and done, it still will never be as stable as a C5 corvette.
3. Huge flares
Think before you cut!
Yeah I know these are super popular right now. The bolt on black flares evoke the 432Z or JDM Z’s. But guess what? Your car is not a 432Z. Auto reviewers of the day thought the Z432 styling was spoiled by “Crude bolt on flares.” To get the extra tire clearance you want you will need to cut into your 240z’s beloved sheet metal. Quarter panels do not grow on trees my friend. Remember too that while this is in style now, it may not be in 5-10 years.
4. Coilovers
Coil overs are over
How many original strut tubes have been cut up to make these? But the boy-tuners must have their way. Seriously, I understand the need for adjustability on the track, but for a street driven car this is a large expense that you do not need. You can make the Z handle extremely well with the suspension set up listed above.
No, no no. Do not change every single rubber bushing in your car to polyurethane. Do you want your Z to ride like a rock? Do you want structural cracks in the suspension mounting points? Do you like squeaking sounds? Seriously, go with rubber for the control arms. Unfortunately you can no longer get rubber for the moustache bar, but you should consider limiting urethane to the rack bushings, steering coupler and sway bar links.
6. Huge rims.
Bigger isn’t always better
Yes, I know a new 911 comes with 19 or 20″ rims. But huge rims look ridiculous on vintage cars that came with 14″ wheels. For one thing your little front rotors are going to look silly. So now you need to buy bigger rotors. Huge rims with bicycle tires are going to make your Z ride even harder, and affect the steering. The car was never engineered for wheels like this! If you want huge wheels, buy the 400Z.
7. Electric fans
It’s not a HONDA.
The original belt driven fan cools very well. The only reason to add electric fans is if you are running AC in stop and go traffic. Otherwise, it’s a waste of money (and fans).
Honorable mentions:
3″ exhaust with turbo muffler or open pipes. Do you like headaches? Or just giving them to your neighbors?
Black paint. There is no such thing as a black 240z. Purple either.
Leather interior. It’s not a 911.
Cambered wheels and stretched tires. See you at the car meets!
Louvers. Ok they do help keep the interior cool. But generally they are ugly and out of style.
atomicdoug 